As usual we find ourselves far behind on writing but we are doing our best! We are in Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca. It is both a climbing and hiking mecca here in Peru. There are something like twenty plus 6000 meter or more peaks in just this small area. But first we had to get up here.

We left Trujillo and rode along the Panamerican for about 70 kilometers before turning off onto a private company road that allows cyclists to use. The road was really beautiful and quiet. It went through the dry desert foothills of the Andes mountains. Literally nothing more than rocks, sand and occasionally bigger rocks. We wild camped in a river bed because we were pretty sure it was not going to rain and we enjoyed the nice peacefulness of the area. The next day we continued along the road until it came to a small town where we were accosted by thousands of sand flies. Sand flies leave the worse bites ever and for about the next 20 kilometers we tried to avoid being completely devoured by them. My legs still have the telltale small droplet size scabs they leave. We finally did leave the sand fly area and got to a small town where we enjoyed a menu. A menu is a Peruvian set meal that includes soup, plate of food and a drink. We had just consumed a whole papaya as well so we left the town a little belly heavy.

We crossed the bridge over Rio Santa and continued into what we though was the Canon del Pato. After about 15 kilometers of climbing a truck pulls over to ask where we are going. Well, we find out we have taken the wrong road. Whoops! Anyhow we went back downhill and since it was so windy we were in our lowest gears just trying to ride downhill. That is the best definition of frustration I can think of. Anyhow, we make it back to the bridge and see it is a small gravel road we have to take to go to the Canon and Huaraz. So with our lovely road bikes we head out mountain biking. We slogged our way through the gravel for about 10 kilometers until we found a small rest stop/restaurant thing. There a man named Coco immediately said we could camp and shower. He then told us stories about all the travelers who have stayed at his small stop. In the morning he presented us with apples and membrillos to take with us on the road. Happily, we set out to the sandy gravelly road. The scenery here though was spectacular. We just kept following the river higher and higher through the gorge. The higher we got the steeper and more treacherous the canyon became. There also began the tunnels. There were at least 40-50 tunnels in only about a 40 kilometer stretch. Finally we left the canyon and found ourselves on paved roads again and winding our way through a wider river valley. From here the views of the Cordillera Blanca are supposed to be the most impressive, but it was clouded in. It was still a very peaceful road to ride through all the farms and small villages. We stayed the night with some firefighters and they gave us a recommendation about staying in Huaraz and we headed off after eating breakfast with them.

Along the last section to Huaraz the road was littered with potholes and finally I hit one and gave myself a flat tire. As we were stopped fixing the tube and man came up and invited us to have a soda with him. So after I fixed my wheel we went inside and attempted to down a liter of coca cola at 10:30 in the morning with this guy who was already a little drunk. Then we continued on to try and make it to Huaraz but the rain set it. So we set about finding a place to stay the night. We found a hotel that was being renovated and we found the owners who immediately asked for 10 soles to stay. Merilee and I waffled on this because it would be sleeping on the floor and taking a cold shower for 10 soles. Not really that ideal. Soon enough though the owner lightened up and decided to let us stay for free. Maybe it was the party taking place in a big hall or the beer he was drinking, but Juan invited us to a drink and a plate of food. He told us about his travels in the USA and drew us a map of Lima. Which he said he would give us in the morning. Except, next morning, he was too drunk to wake up and we waited until about 11 for him before we finally left to ride the final 20 kilometers into Huaraz.

Along the road there we met some old friends. As we stopped for a construction site some folks we met a few days earlier drove up and then Antonio, a cyclist from Trujillo, also rode up. So we chatted together and rode into Huaraz. Since then we have been hanging out with Antonio and Nat, another cyclist from Trujillo, who made it into Huaraz the following day.

By some strange force of the universe, as we were entering a cafe Merilee ran into an old Online Cafe co-worker. Joe, it turns out, and his wife Nina are volunteering in a community school that helps students who are falling through the cracks (i.e. can't pay for books, school uniform, family doesn't even have space for them to do homework, etc.) here in Huaraz. Anyhow, Joe and Nina immediately invited us to stay a few days to work at the school and spend Christmas with them and their roomates Jan and Shelly who also work at the school. Merilee and I decided it would be best to spend Christmas with a bunch of good people instead of riding through Lima (which had been our previous plan). Yesterday we had our Christmas dinner because in Peru the 24th is Christmas dinner day. We had a huge feast of american and welsh food. We had cheesy leeks and nut loaf, two welsh classics. And, of course, a turkey. At midnight we went up to the roof to watch the town explode in fireworks. It was pretty awesome to see everyone shooting off their own individual fireworks.