Up Up and Oaxaca!!

Well, we found our way back into the mountains. After dropping significantly in elevation for a day, we climbed all the way right back up...think 30 km of pure up...not a downhill in sight...and then as much up and down to your heart's content as you can handle. In short, it was a tough ride to Oaxaca, but we made it. We arrived here in the city in the afternoon, and made our way to Hijos de la Luna, an NGO that supports single moms and their children. We were greeted with a round of sticky-palmed applause and tequila cocktails, the latter in honor of Mother's Day :c) We just relaxed for the rest of the evening, bathing and eating, and then put ourselves to work the next morning.

We found Hijos de la Luna as we were searching for a place to do some volunteering. It is kind of like a cross between an orphanage and a daycare, meaning that moms can drop their kids off for anything from just daytime to months or years at a time until they can take care of their children full time, both financially and emotionally. Many of the children come from backgrounds of violence, neglect, and malnutrition. Therefore, there are a lot of behavioral and developmental problems that occur with the kids, and keeping the ball rolling in terms of just maintaining order and a respectful environment is a full-time endeavor. On top of keeping up with the kids (who, although they don't necessarily realize it, are always more energetic and two thousand steps ahead of adults!) there is a lot of cleaning, laundry and cooking that has to be done for a household of 30! Whew!

We end every evening tired, but content. Each day gets easier as we all get to know each other more, and as we understand better how things run. After all the kids are tucked in the adults just crash at the kitchen table, drink coffee, have a bite to eat, and talk politics and culture. It has been really interesting and rewarding to get to know Dona Coco and her family. They are all amazingly warm, funny, educated people who exhibit beautifully what it means to do things for others. In some ways their family reminds me of our family...they are always laughing up a storm together. And they have their own Josh! Meaning that they also have a non-bio-bro who just wormed his way into their hearts and home. So far there's no evidence of Kavita or Jenny equivalents, but that just makes our little crew even cooler :c) I really appreciate that we are all like family, I'm glad that you guys also have your own awesome families, and I love that I get to brag about you guys. Yep, I feel pretty lucky to have all of you in my life!

Apart from helping out at Hijos, we try to take some time to get out and see the city. So far it has been fantastic. We visited our first big ruins site, Monte Alban, up on a hillside above Oaxaca. It makes both of us laugh that it was "discovered" in 1930 or some such year...I'm pretty sure all the indigenous people in the area knew that there was a huge complex of ruins on top of a big mountain right in the region where they had been living for thousands of years...Anyway, we have also been enjoying the center with it's enormous shady plaza, markets stuffed with delicious food and drink, churches and museums. Along with being entertained by the sights we also have been doing a bit of entertaining ourselves. Eric brought out his ukulele the other night and played and sang songs with the kids - they loved it! We also taught a few of Dona Coco's sons how to play Spit, Speed, Double Solitaire, and BS. We laughed so much at all the craziness of the fast card games, how hard it is to learn new ones, and at my sore loser/competitive nature! All in all, we are really enjoying our time here, and it will be tough to leave such great people and all the kids who deserve so much.

Donde se esconde el Gran Piramide?

For all of you that took one look at the last blog and said WTF I don't speak Spanish, here's one just for you. To bring y'all up to speed, basically we took the Arco Norte around Mexico City so we didn't have to go into a metropolis of 25 million people on our humble little transportation devices. And it was polluted. Air, water, land, you name it. Looming mountains were barely visible in the not-too-far distance. Passing by bodies of water was enough to make us gag.Passing by huge, unofficial dump sites didn't smell as bad as any of the creeks. A massive oil refinery the size of Wallingford made for an unusual inhabitant of a lush, sprawling valley. So we desperately clapped our bandannas over our noses and mouths in an attempt to make it out alive. We did, but Eric could do a killer rendition of 'What a Wonderful World' for several days thereafter. Perhaps the most surreal part of the ride was that we were out in the boonies. The air was brown and heavy for days, evidence of the unbelievable population just beyond sight, but we were mostly apart from civilization, so much so that it was tough to find places to get food, water, and a place to crash at night. The coolest part was the fact that we had beautiful, albeit hazy, views of the smoking volcano! Anyway, there is something seductive about Mexico City. It's hard to put my finger on it, but I'm incredibly drawn to it's unparalleled population and insistent, constant presence. It gives me that sensation that I have when I stay home on a Saturday night, and I just have this feeling that I'm going to miss something amazing because I did. All roads lead to Mexico City...

Our first stop after the Arco was Cholula. We decided to take a detour there because we read about the Great Pyramid, the largest in the world by volume, and wanted to check it out. We arrived in the mid-afternoon, found the main plaza, and the police helped us find the DIF office, a social program in all Mexican cities designed to provide support for families and their communities. After a bit of a wait and a few phone calls made on our behalf, we were found a place to stay - the DIF patio. Unceremonious but perfect (simple yet secure), we gratefully pushed our bikes on over to what we thought would be our bed for the night. Shortly thereafter, however, we met David, the director of DIF. He offered to take us on into Puebla, a big city just East of Cholula, to do an errand, and assured us that he was not a kidnapper or drug trafficker :c) So, we went to Angelopolis, a huge luxury mall that was by far the most like being in the US (Bellevue to be exact - Dave, you would have loved it :c) that we have yet experienced. Anyway, one thing led to another, and we ended up hanging out with David for 3 days in Puebla and having a fantabulous time!

Next up on the menu of Mexico for us was a whirlwind eating tour a la Puebla. David wouldn't let us pay for practically anything, and he seemed to thoroughly enjoy being our tour/food guide - how amazing! We tried more things than I remember names for, but they included arabic tacos (think Mexican pita), oriental tacos (the same but with corn tortillas), sandwiches on deep fried buns, tortillas stuffed with an array of fillings, folded and deep fried, pig feet tostatas, cemitas (sandwiches piled high with Oaxacan quesilla cheese), and more kinds of ice cream than I have ever seen in my entire life. Baskin Robbins and, I hate to say it, Molly Moon's...move over. Pitaya, tequila, corn, watermelon, passionfruit, cactus...sorbet, milk-based...cone, cup, popsicle...I literally stood mute at the counter for a good 5 minutes completely unable to choose one to try. Ultimately I went for my go-to of guava, but I snapped out of my daze the next night to try avocado and rompope (egg liquer).

We happened to be in Puebla for 5 de Mayo, and the battle that was won by the Mexicans against the French happened just outside the city. So, there was a massive parade that passed down one of the principal boulevards. Eric got to see most of it, but I mostly just saw heads marching by - there were so many people! In the evening we were extremely lucky to stumble across a beautiful encore of dances that were performed in Barroquisimo, an annual cultural festival. My favorite group were the charros - boot stomping, sombrero wearing, rhinestone cowboys with great legs in tight pants. This is Merilee writing, by the way :c) After the performances we wandered out into the zocalo, and were attacked by street clowns. I managed to hide myself in the crowd, but Eric couldn't duck low enough to avoid being seen. So the blonde, lanky, blue eyed gringo was dragged into the spotlight for some wash-your-mouth-out-with-soap double entendres. Eric was actually quite hillarious and had the crowd roaring as he stole one of the clown's vests and chased him around the plaza trying to kiss him. I mean seriously, it was the ONLY time the camera had run out of battery power...I would have killed for video documentation!!!

En fin, we had a fantastic time in Puebla. David, muchiiisimas gracias a ti - nos divertimos un monton y nos sentimos superagradecidos haberte conocido. Un beson!

Next up: Oaxaca...Stay tuned.

Photos: Cathedral in Puebla; Eric and David; tourist shop; Barroquisimo marquee; Eric looking pious in front of an ex-convent

El Arco Norte

Despues de La Palapa, paramos en un pueblito, Encinillas, que encontramos en la autopista Mexico-Queretaro. Conocimos a Pepe y su familia - genial! Nos daron de comer - sopa de fideos, guisado y quesadillas -, y nos ofrecieron la regadera y un sito para descansar. En principio pensamos en poner la casita de campana en el patio, pero al final el delegado nos llevo a su casa para que podaramos dormir agusto en una cama. En la manana nos preparon un desayuno muy rico de galletas, leche fresca, te, quesadillas y salsa verde con tomatillo. Que rico! Fuimos juntos con Pepe al tianguis para comprar fruta, y luego nos despedimos. Muchas gracias a todos!

La proxima parada fue en el Arco Norte, la pista que rodea al DF. Teniamos permiso pasar, pero lo normal es que las bicicletas estan prohibidas. Por eso fue un poco dificil bajar del tramo - tuvimos que platicar con la supervisora de la caseta de Santa Maria - pero al final si que bajamos y la oficina del Arco nos brindo sitio para montar la casita.

La ultima parada en el arco la realizamos en Emiliano Zapata. Fue un domingo, asi que la unica autoridad que se permanecia abierto fue la policia. Encontramos a un senor en la calle y le preguntamos por donde estaba ubiquitada la policia. Nos respondio, "Ustedes maltratan a mis paisanos. O les estoy mintiendo?" Bienvenidos. La verdad es que estoy contenta platicar sobre los temas del racismo, xenofobia, etc., porque si que existen, y estan en todas partes, y es importante entendernos y trabajar por los derechos humanos. Pero cuando la gente me habla asi no me da la gana porque siento como me esten maltratando a mi, como si yo fuera victima del racismo...Lo bueno de esa situation es que me dio una ventana. Es decir que asi que soy blanca, soy Estadounidense, normalmente el racismo, la xenofobia no me afecta a mi. Pero momentos asi me dan cuenta, personalmente, de la rabia, la tristeza, la pena que causan los 'ismos.' Espero que yo vaya aprendiendo... Pues, en fin, encontramos a la policia, nos ayudo, y dormimos en el salon de la iglesia principal. Gracias.

La autopista desde Queretaro hasta mas alla que Puebla cuenta con mucha contamination. Teniamos que ponernos las bandanas sobre la nariz y la boca para filtrar el aire - realmente fue superfuerte. El agua tambien es bastante contaminada. Por ejemplo, pasamos por un valle donde habia una refineria de petroleo gigante, y cada vez que pasamos por un corriente de agua casi nos sofocamos. La verdad es que el peste del agua fue peor que lo de los areas para basura :c( Me da pena tanto por el medio ambiente como por la gente que tiene que aguantar las consequencias de la contamination. Asi como sale en la tele, cuidalo!

Fotos: Pepe y su familia en Encinillas; una vista de las dos montanas de DF.

Sorry, dear audience, but we have been slacking on the blog post recently. Internet comes and goes like unsettled stomachs here in Mexico. Who knows what that means?

Since we are very behind on blogging, which we all know is a sin, we will revisit the 20th of April 2010. Me and Merilee had just left our comfortable rooftop in Guanajuato and we being pushed to San Miguel by a nice tail-wind. The countryside was scattered with small ranchitos, cows, and burros. We ate delicious cookies from a panadaria (our favorite) for a snack right as we reached a high ridge looking out to the Presa of San Miguel. From there we flew into San Miguel until we we halted by cobblestone streets. Nothing stops road bikes loaded with panniers faster than cobblestone (perhaps ice cream though?) But we were on our way to stay with Merilee's friend, Jill's boyfriend, Jesse's parents....whew that complicated.

Meet the Ross's; Peter and Marisa. A beautiful couple living in San Miguel who graciously opened their house to two weary travelers. Ok, too dramatic, but we did smell. Anyhow, Marisa and Peter showed me and Merilee around San Miguel. Which is a lovely city, amazing architecture and beautiful plazas of stone and flowers. Narrow cobbled streets that descend rather dangerously steep through old houses. A UN World Heritage site we hear. Anyway, they took us out to dinner for Molcajeta, a steaming pot of salsa verde, nopales, cheese, res, and avocado, which you all must try because we say so. Find it! We got to meet AND pet two lovely German shepards; Pancho and Gino as well as a cat (unnamed?)! This is luxury because most animals we see in Mexico fall into two categories; dead on the side of the road or so viciously alive they are going to eat your hand for lunch. So yay! We had a wonderful time getting to know Marisa and Peter, and they even let us leave our bicycles in their house and take a trip to Mexico City!! Which really was something we wanted to do.

But....Marisa and Peter do have some dark secrets, things that didn't leave the cellar until.....NOW!! (Risa conspirador) For example, we could tell you what Peter's FBI file says, but we'd have to kill you. Or how he tried to bribe his way to get a Mexican passport, but honest Americans don't do things like that, so make your own judgment. And Marisa, well don't tell anyone but...she's perfect. Like a circle or maybe a record. They thought they were off the record, think again! Better find some bikes and catch us!

In the end, Marisa and Peter thankyou so much for giving us a bed and fun place to stay for a week. We enjoyed it much!!

So, after leaving our comfortable place to stay in San Miguel we biked out onto the road again with Oaxaca, about 2 weeks away, as our next major stopping point. Our first day from San Miguel finds ourselves on the main highway into Mexico City. Which, even though was still 200 kilometers away from the city was packed full of buses, semis, cars, trucks, scooters, and two bikers looking for a place to stay. We spotted a restaurant; La Palapa del Norte (dun dun DUUUNNNN).

La Palapa appeared to have what we needed; grass, it was enclosed, and probably bathrooms being as it was a restaurant. We went in to see if they would be so kind as to let us stay the night. We met a man who was part of the family that owned the restaurant (we forgot his name, party foul but it was unusual and he even told us that. HA! not bad people) and he graciously offered us a tent trailer with beds to stay in and a free dinner cooked by his son. It is small things like this that really have been making our trip, we ask for some grass to sleep on and people offer us a bed, shower and meal. Anyhow if was a good night until... the morning.

Since both me and Merilee slept inside the trailer we left our shoes and panniers outside. Bad move fellow travelers through Mexico the land of wandering dogs. As I left the trailer in the morning to urinate, I noticed a dog happily chewing on what appeared to be one of Merilee's sea green tennis shoes. It was of course. I went to look for her other shoe but could not find it. Mine, however, were luckily under the car next to the trailer. We spent the next hour or so searching for her other shoe with some of the local workers until finally, thank goodness, we found it in the trash. The night guard had apparently found it and thrown it away. It only lacked a shoelace, luckily, but gained a lifetimes worth of character.

In other news, Eric has almost finished War and Peace. Thus his bike will weigh 15 pounds less when that rock is rid of.

Photos : Chicharrones, San Miguel, (Marisa, Peter, Gino, and Pancho), Merilee with her new bike we traded her road bike for